Shea Butter and African Black Soap

Both are traditional West African products that have earned their reputation, and both are used in ways that do not suit everyone. Shea is an excellent occlusive that some faces cannot tolerate. Black soap is an effective cleanser that is too strong for many people to use daily. Knowing what each does well keeps them in the places they belong.

Raw against refined shea

Raw or unrefined shea is ivory to yellowish, smells nutty or smoky, and keeps more of its natural compounds. Refined shea is white, odorless, smoother and more consistent, having been processed to remove the smell and color. For skin and hair the difference in performance is modest; the difference in smell and texture is not. If the scent of raw shea puts you off using it, refined is the better buy, because the product that gets used is the one that works.

What shea is good for

Sealing moisture into skin and hair. On the body it is the heaviest, most effective butter for dry patches, elbows, heels and winter skin. On hair it seals the ends after a leave-in and is the base of most hair butters. On the scalp it is heavy and better used sparingly. It should be applied to damp skin or hair, since as an occlusive it seals in whatever is there and does not add water itself.

Black soap

Made from plantain skins, cocoa pods and palm or shea oil, it is a genuinely effective cleanser and it is alkaline, which means it can be drying and can sting. On oily body skin and as an occasional face wash it works well. As a daily face wash it is too strong for a lot of people, particularly anyone with dry or sensitive skin, and the tightness after washing is the sign. Dilute it, use it every few days rather than daily, and follow with moisturizer. Keep it out of the eyes, since it stings badly.

Patch testing and storage

Test either on the inner forearm for a couple of days before using it on the face. Store shea in a cool place with the lid on, since it goes grainy when it melts and re-solidifies, and it can go rancid over a year or two; a sour smell means it is finished. Keep black soap dry between uses, in a dish that drains, or it dissolves into mush within weeks.