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Water Wave Wigs

Water wave sits between a wave and a curl, with an irregular, unpressed pattern that looks as though the hair dried naturally after a swim. On a unit that irregularity is an advantage: it is the least uniform of the wave textures, and uniformity is what makes wigs look like wigs.

What the texture does on a cap

Because the pattern varies along each strand rather than repeating evenly, a water wave unit disguises the parting, the knots and the cap edge better than deep wave or body wave do. It also disguises its own imperfections, so a mid-priced water wave unit tends to look better than a mid-priced straight one. The trade is volume: the pattern is looser than deep wave, so it does not read as full unless the density is there.

It wants to be damp

Water wave looks its best slightly wet and its worst bone dry, when the pattern goes fluffy and separates into frizz. A spray bottle is the tool this texture is built around. Mist, scrunch the hair upward toward the cap in handfuls, and leave it alone while it dries. Touching it while it dries is what creates the frizz you are trying to avoid.

Product, and how little to use

A light leave-in and a small amount of mousse or a curl-defining cream is enough. Gels give hold but leave a crunch you then have to break, which disturbs the pattern. Oils are for the mid-lengths and ends only; near the cap they make the roots look greasy and flatten the wave where it needs the most lift.

Sleeping and storage

Gather the hair loosely at the crown and cover it with a satin bonnet, or braid it in two loose braids if the unit is long. Both preserve the pattern; leaving it loose against a pillow flattens one side and frizzes the other. On a stand, let it hang rather than pressing it against a wall.

Washing

Cool water, working downward, squeezing rather than rubbing. Detangle only when it is wet and full of conditioner, from the ends up. Air dry if you can, since a dryer on any real heat loosens the pattern on human hair and can damage synthetic fiber outright.